Hubbell Q&A: Cat6a Cable, CS6365L, and Which Multimeter to Buy

I've been managing purchasing for our company for five years now—running about 60 to 80 orders each year. Hubbell is one of those brands that keeps showing up across our electrical and data projects. Since I've spent way too many hours reading spec sheets and returning wrong parts, I put together this FAQ from a buyer's perspective. Here are the questions I hear most often.

What does Hubbell make?

Hubbell makes wiring devices, connectors, cable management, data communication products, power distribution equipment, marine products, and lighting controls. In other words, a lot of the hidden infrastructure that keeps a building running. We use their wall outlets, plugs, patch panels, and Cat6a jacks across several facilities.

You'll also see the name written as Hubbell Incorporated (or Hubbell Inc. for short). That "Inc" is just the legal suffix. If you're looking for official documents or the NYSE listing, the full name is Hubbell Incorporated. On a part number like "Hubbell Inc 1221," it's simply identifying the manufacturer.

Is Hubbell Cat6a cable worth specifying?

For new network runs, yes. We installed Hubbell Cat6a cable for a group who work with large video files, and it's handled the bandwidth without issues. But the cable is only part of the story. The jacks, patch panels, and termination work all have to meet Cat6a specs. If one link in the chain is older Cat5-rated hardware, you won't get the 10GBASE-T performance you're paying for.

Another thing I learned: shielded Cat6a is stiffer and harder to pull than unshielded. It takes longer to terminate, so budget more labor hours. In return, you get better protection against electrical noise—which matters in a facility with motors and heavy equipment. It's sort of like insurance: not glamorous, but you'll be glad it's there.

What is the Hubbell CS6365L?

The CS6365L is a heavy-duty locking plug from Hubbell. It's a male connector rated for 50A at 250V AC, with three poles and four wires. We ordered one to hook up a portable welder in our maintenance shop. It's built to stay locked in place even when the cable gets yanked or the equipment vibrates.

Make sure you match it with the correct receptacle—the CS6365R is the female version. And don't assume any locking plug will work. Voltage ratings, pole counts, and physical configurations all have to line up. This is 50 amps, not a lamp cord. When in doubt, take a photo of the existing connector and the receptacle before ordering. (That tip has saved me more than one return.)

What does "Inc." mean in Hubbell Inc?

Not a lot, honestly. It's short for "Incorporated," and it tells you the company's legal structure. You'll see it on invoices, spec sheets, and search results. It doesn't mean there's a different product line or a separate "Inc" brand. When you're checking the legitimacy of a seller, the full legal name—Hubbell Incorporated—is the one to look for.

Which multimeter to buy for electrical work?

The most common question I get from new facilities people is "which multimeter to buy" because everyone has an opinion. Hubbell isn't the first name in multimeters, but you'll need a good one if you're testing Hubbell wiring devices and connectors. The Fluke 117—what people usually mean when they type "117 multimeter"—is one of the most popular choices. It's CAT III 600V rated, includes non-contact voltage detection, and handles everyday AC/DC measurements well.

Do you need that much meter? If you're only checking continuity, a cheaper model works. But for mains circuits and 50A locking connectors, spend the money on a safety-rated meter. A $15 no-name meter isn't a bargain if the circuit is live (unfortunately, I've seen this from a distance). You don't need the most expensive model—just one from a reputable brand with the right CAT rating.

Where should I buy Hubbell parts without risking counterfeits?

Stick with authorized distributors. That's the straightforward answer. Counterfeit electrical parts are a real issue, especially with popular locking plugs and connectors. A package of six "Hubbell" plugs can look authentic at first glance but fail to meet the UL listing and dimensional requirements.

In 2022, a new vendor sent us samples of what they claimed were genuine Hubbell connectors. The part markings were slightly off, and the plastic didn't feel right. We sent them back. Since then, I've trusted a small list of distributors and the ordering portal on Hubbell's site. It took me a few years and one counterfeit scare to stop chasing the lowest price. Reliability matters more.

Is rush delivery worth the extra cost?

When a deadline matters, yes. In March 2024, we needed a Hubbell locking plug and receptacle for a Friday repair. Regular shipping would have arrived Monday—too late. The overnight upgrade cost about $60. I hesitated before approving it, wondering if I was throwing money away. Then I thought about the alternative: a plant that stays down all weekend and a maintenance manager whose weekend gets ruined.

The package arrived Thursday afternoon. The repair happened Friday morning. $60 bought certainty, not just speed. For an urgent order, "probably on time" isn't good enough. If the cost of missing a deadline is higher than the shipping premium, pay the premium. (That logic works for a lot of purchasing decisions, not just Hubbell parts.)

What's one mistake every buyer should avoid?

Don't assume "standard" means the same thing every time. In my first year, I ordered what I thought was a standard Hubbell plug. It turned out to be a non-locking version, and we needed a locking one. The order had to be re-done, the job was delayed, and the electrician was not thrilled. The lesson: read the datasheet line by line.

Pay special attention to the difference between a plug and a receptacle, voltage rating, amp rating, and locking vs. non-locking. A couple of letters in the part number change everything—CS6365L vs. CS6365R is a perfect example. Better to spend two minutes checking than two days waiting for a replacement.